Glossary
Glossary
Terms: 25
B
- Bantu knots Bantu knots are a style in which sections of hair are twisted and coiled into small knots, often used to set curls or waves on textured hair. When released, the twisted shape leaves defined, stretched texture. Smaller knots give tighter definition and larger ones give looser, fluffier curls. Set the knots on damp, moisturized hair, avoid pulling them tight against the scalp, and expect some shrinkage as coily hair dries and springs back. See also: Twist-out, Shrinkage, Tension, Takedown.
- Bun maker A bun maker is a soft, shapeable tool around which hair is wrapped to form a bun or a coil used in some heatless styles. Foam and fabric versions bend easily without sharp creases and are gentler than wire-only designs. Choose a size to match your hair: smaller for short or fine hair, larger for long or thick hair. Wrap the hair smoothly around it and secure it without pulling tight, particularly if you plan to sleep in it. See also: Scrunchie, Tension, Heatless curls.
- Braid-out A braid-out is a set of waves or crimped texture created by unraveling braids after hair has dried in them. Fewer, larger braids give soft waves, while more, smaller braids give a tighter, more textured pattern. Braid damp or dry hair without pulling tightly, leave the braids until every strand is dry, and separate the result with your fingers instead of a brush to keep the pattern from turning into a cloud. See also: Twist-out, Takedown, Frizz.
D
F
- Flexi rod A flexi rod is a bendable, foam-covered rod that hair is wrapped around and then folded closed to hold the curl. The diameter decides the curl: thinner rods make tighter, springier curls and thicker rods make looser waves. Choose a length that lets a whole section wrap without sliding, and a soft foam that is comfortable if you sleep on it. Smooth the section before wrapping, and wrap the ends fully instead of folding them to avoid kinks. See also: Sectioning, Set, Tension, Takedown.
- Frizz Frizz is rough, fuzzy hair that lifts away from the curl pattern, often linked to dryness, friction or humidity. In heatless styling it commonly appears when a set is released before it is completely dry, when curls are brushed out or when hair rubs against bedding overnight. Fingers rather than a brush, a smooth cover for sleep, a conditioner or leave-in suited to your hair and less touching during the day all help. No product makes hair immune to damp weather. See also: Friction, Satin bonnet, Leave-in conditioner, Takedown.
- Friction Friction is rubbing between hair and a surface such as bedding, clothing, a hood or a bag strap, which can roughen the outer surface of the strand and cause frizz. It is strongest at the ends and around the nape. Covering a set with a smooth bonnet or sleeping on a smooth pillowcase reduces it, towelling with a pressing motion instead of rubbing helps, and keeping long hair away from zippers avoids snagging. See also: Frizz, Satin bonnet, Tension.
H
- Heatless curls Heatless curls are curls or waves formed by wrapping, twisting or braiding hair and letting it dry in shape, without hot styling tools. The hair holds the bend as moisture leaves the strand, so the result depends on how damp the hair was, the size of the section and the form it was wrapped around. A thin rod gives tight spirals; a wide fabric tube or a braid gives soft waves. Most sets need several hours, and many people leave them in overnight. See also: Set, Flexi rod, Takedown, Braid-out.
- Hair porosity Hair porosity describes how easily a hair strand absorbs and holds moisture. It can influence how water and products behave on your hair: some hair seems to soak up product quickly and dry fast, while other hair seems to resist water and stay damp longer. Porosity is a general description, not a medical measure, and it is not the same as thickness or curl pattern. Watching how your hair behaves, in a short log, is a practical way to choose products and drying times. See also: Leave-in conditioner, Frizz, Strand thickness.
- Hair density Hair density is how many individual hairs grow on the scalp. Dense hair has a lot of strands, tends to take longer to dry and often needs more sections than you expect so air can reach the inner layers. Fine strands can still be dense, so density is a different measure from strand thickness. If your hair is dense, start the wrap closer to dry, use smaller sections and allow extra time in the morning to check the inner layers before takedown. See also: Strand thickness, Sectioning, Set.
L
M
P
- Pin curl A pin curl is a small section of hair coiled flat against the head and held with a clip or pin until it dries into a curl. Pin curls take longer to place than a single wrap, but they are compact, quiet to sleep on and suit short hair or curls that start close to the root. Use smooth, rounded clips with a flat profile, vary where you place them from one set to the next and never sleep on a hard clip that hurts. See also: Sectioning, Set, Tension, Takedown.
- Pineapple method The pineapple method is gathering hair into a loose high ponytail on top of the head, usually at night, to help preserve curls and volume. It suits longer curls, which can flatten against a pillow. Use a soft, fabric-covered tie, keep it loose enough that it does not pull at the hairline, and cover the hair with a smooth bonnet or pillowcase. Wear it loosely: the American Academy of Dermatology advises hair loosely pulled back, not tight. See also: Satin bonnet, Scrunchie, Friction.
S
- Sectioning Sectioning is dividing hair into separate parts, often held with clips, so each piece can be styled evenly. Even sections dry at similar speeds and produce curls of a similar size, while uneven sections give a mix of tight and loose curls and damp patches. A common start is a four-part split, then smaller pieces about as wide as the curl you want: thicker pieces make looser waves, thinner pieces make tighter curls. See also: Hair density, Strand thickness, Flexi rod, Pin curl.
- Set A set is the shape hair takes when it dries in a wrap, roller, twist or braid, and also the arrangement itself while it dries. A thorough set holds longer: curls released while still cool or damp relax within an hour, whereas hair that dried completely in position keeps its bend. Check thick inner layers and the nape by touch before takedown, and leave any damp piece wrapped a while longer. Consistent section sizes help the whole set dry at the same pace. See also: Takedown, Sectioning, Heatless curls.
- Satin bonnet A satin bonnet is a smooth sleep cap that covers hair to reduce friction against bedding and help protect a set. Look for a roomy shape if your set is bulky and a wide, soft band that holds without leaving marks or causing a headache. A smooth pillowcase can back it up if the bonnet slips off in the night. Check the product description for the actual fabric and care instructions, because shiny does not always mean satin or silk. See also: Friction, Frizz, Pineapple method.
- Scrunchie A scrunchie is a fabric-covered elastic hair tie with gathered material, generally gentler on hair than a thin rubber band. In heatless routines it secures ponytails, buns and the ends of wraps. The elastic should hold without crushing hair, the fabric should have a smooth finish with no rough seams, and metal parts or decorations that can snag are best avoided. The American Academy of Dermatology also advises wearing hair loosely pulled back and using covered bands made for styling. See also: Tension, Bun maker, Pineapple method.
- Setting lotion A setting lotion is a styling liquid applied to damp hair to give a bit of hold, so a curl or wave lasts longer. It helps hair that struggles to keep a bend, such as very straight hair, and it works best in light, even layers. Too much leaves hair stiff or sticky. Smooth it through before you section and wrap, let the set dry completely and release it gently, because a lotion cannot hold curls that came out of the wrap while damp. See also: Mousse, Set, Takedown.
- Shrinkage Shrinkage is the way tightly coiled hair appears shorter than its true length when it dries and springs up. It is a normal property of coily texture, not a sign of damage. A more stretched set, such as twists or braids on damp, moisturized hair, leaves longer-looking curls, but some shrinkage is unavoidable and a set will still look noticeably shorter once the curl springs back. Plan the length you want with that in mind. See also: Twist-out, Bantu knots, Hair porosity.
- Strand thickness Strand thickness is the width of an individual hair, commonly described as fine, medium or coarse. It affects how a curl holds: fine strands are light and dry quickly but can lose a curl fast and are easily weighed down, while coarse strands often need more hold and more time. Fine hair usually does better with lightweight products and smaller sections. It is separate from density, which counts strands rather than measuring them. See also: Hair density, Mousse, Setting lotion.
T
- Twist-out A twist-out is defined, stretched texture made by unraveling twisted sections of hair once they are completely dry. It is a common way to stretch and define coils and curls without heat. Twist damp, well-moisturized hair, keep the sections even, and make sure each twist is completely dry before you open it. Smaller twists give tighter definition and larger ones give fuller, looser curls. Expect some shrinkage as the hair springs back. See also: Braid-out, Bantu knots, Shrinkage, Leave-in conditioner.
- Tension Tension is the pulling force a wrap or tie puts on the hair and scalp. Low tension is more comfortable and gentler: a wrap should be secure but not tight, and should not pull hair from the scalp. The American Academy of Dermatology says that if a hairstyle feels painful, the style is too tight, and that very tight styles can lead to a type of hair loss called traction alopecia. Loosen anything that stings, and vary where clips and ties sit. See also: Takedown, Pin curl, Scrunchie, Friction.
- Takedown Takedown is the step of releasing a finished set, such as unwinding rods or unpinning curls, once the hair is fully dry. Check every section by touch first, especially thick inner layers and the nape, because curls released while damp relax quickly. Unwind slowly from the bottom up, let the curls hang for a minute, separate them with your fingers instead of a brush and avoid unwrapping in a steamy bathroom, where humidity can undo the work. See also: Set, Frizz, Braid-out, Tension.